Pork stock and a snack for the Wife.

CrubeensI have been keen to post the photo above. It was taken, on 35mm, by my late father, in 1967 while we were at Puck Fair in Killorglin, Co. Kerry. The picture of a ’67 food truck gives a great insight into Irish life at the time. The typography tells me that Fish and Chips was the lead offer. Crubeens were a staple and Hamburgers were something pretty exotic. I had never cooked crubeens. Oh, they are pigs feet, for those of you not in the know. So, when Ety from Ethical Pork offered me a few, I knew I could redress the situation and have an excuse to show a wonderful bit of Irish social history from almost 50 years ago.

Not the prettiest thing I have ever cooked.  Still, worth showing you.

Not the prettiest thing I have ever cooked. Still, worth showing you.

The first thing to do with the crubeens is to burn off the excess hair. Given what  I was doing, I really don’t see the need to do this but, it was fun and the picture is pretty attractive, in a gruesome sort of way.

It's a long way from crème brûlée - my versatile kitchen blowtorch.

It’s a long way from crème brûlée – my versatile kitchen blowtorch.

Place the trotters in a pot of water and bring them to a boil. Boil for 10 minutes. This will bring impurities and a foamy scum to the surface.

Not so attractive. Trust me, it gets better from here.

Not so attractive. Trust me, it gets better from here.

Pour off the water and scum. Clean the pot and add the trotters, water, three carrots, two onions, three stalks of celery, 12 or so peppercorns and a bouquet garni.

At last, an attractive looking photograph.

At last, an attractive looking photograph.

Simmer this for three hours. Remove the trotters. Let them cool for about an hour.

Side note on crubeens: Back in the day, they would have been served at this stage of the process. They would have been eaten greedily with a lot of slavering and slopping. 

Now roll up your sleeves and take the crubeens apart. Remove all the meat and put it in a bowl.

Not a lot of meat on the three crubeens.

Not a lot of meat on the three crubeens. Enough for a sandwich, perhaps?

Separate the fat from what remains and discard.

This is a really, really  messy job. Man up and get stuck in.

This is a really, really messy job. Man up and get stuck in.

Put all the bones (there will be lots of them), skin and gelatinous materials back into the pot with the cooking stock. Bring this to a gentle simmer, with the lid on, for a couple of hours. Then remove the lid and take out all the vegetables and pork bits.

Like I said. This is a messy job. Trust me, it's worth it.

Like I said. This is a messy job. Trust me, it’s worth it.

Simmer again, to reduce the remaining stock by about three-quarters. Let it cool somewhat. It will start to turn to a very thick, extremely flavoursome stock. Before it sets, pour it through a muslin (Muslin, not Muslim – It’s pork remember).

The muslin will remove any last bits of grittiness and impurities.

The muslin will remove any last bits of grittiness and impurities.

Pour the stock into ice-cube trays.

The ice cube trick give great flexibility for adding to soups, stews, chilis or whatever.

The ice-cube trick give great flexibility for adding to soups, stews, chillis or whatever.

I got an even 42. Into the freezer with them!

These will add punch to porky things over the coming months.

These will add punch to porky things over the coming months.

The stock cubes are a long way from 1967 crubeens. But, they are all about big pork flavour. That much they have in common.

Oh, one last thing. While I was at work the next day, the Wife made a sandwich with the meat. I never got to taste it. It’s 48 years since we were in Puck Fair that day. To date, I haven’t tasted crubeens. A treat in store….

67 thoughts on “Pork stock and a snack for the Wife.

  1. This is pretty much what we do with pork hocks all the time. I’ve not taken a blow torch to them before, though. Even if hair is not an issue, I guess that al as long as you don’t blacken the skin overly, the process probably adds an interesting new depth of flavor…

    Like

  2. Sounds like what I do with my ham bones… Makes a great jellied pork stock with a nice smoked flavour, excellent for a winter soup. Crubeens need a bit of a marketing makeover, I think, starting with the name! I can’t quite understand the attraction, the same way I don’t get chicken wings or feet. Far too much trouble for what you get out of it!

    Like

    • Hi Kate,
      Chicken wings are really only good for stock too. The feet, I never see so I don’t have to go there. I don’t fancy taking on the role of Crubeen Marketing Manager either.

      Like

    • Lost in translation Sanjiv, for sure. The term ‘minerals’ refers to soft (non alcoholic) drinks. They are still referred to a such here. I can’t imagine them selling boxite or such like back in the day.
      Hope all goes well with you,
      Conor

      Like

  3. Trotters are a much maligned and delicious part of the pig. Marco Pierre White used to bone and stuff them with foie gras and Fergus Henderson uses the gelatinous stock (Trotter Gear as he calls it) as his secret ingredient. You’ve reminded me of the fantastic trotters I had a restaurant called Brawn, where all the meat is removed and tuned into little balls before breading and deep frying. Great photo 😉

    Like

  4. Both my grandfathers and several other older family members (some long deceased) were fond of pickled pigs’ feet, which are still easy to come by in the grocery store. We were/still are a poor Scots/Irish/mutt family that came across Appalachia- we couldn’t afford to eat high on the hog. But then, the loin isn’t always the best cut, now is it?

    Like

  5. We live in a world of pig bits here. With Jenny being a vegetarian, not a lot of it gets into the house. I love trotters in breadcrumbs (pieds de porc St. Menehould). There’s a tiny restaurant at the heart of Les Halles, in nearby NIort, where they do very fine things with pigs:)

    Like

  6. The next time I hesitate before posting a particularly vivid raw carcass photo (or make a politically-incorrect pun) lest I offend the squeamish, I’m simply going to ask myself WWCD? (What would Conor do?) I think we both know the answer. Great post. We love all manner of stocks and broths so I’ll be giving this a shot, although your torch looks a wee bit bigger than mine. Great photo of the food truck (Roddy Doyle!). What are “minerals”? Soft drinks? Ken

    Liked by 1 person

  7. What a superb lesson! Like any good Scandinavian gal make brawn religiously from both head and feet but have never kept any pork stock separately: shall try soonest Hmm: absolutely love chicken wings and have any number of great Asian recipes to which to say ‘yum’ [greatest gooey and messy party food in Oz!!] . . . also happen to like Marco Pierre White who, after all, has taught most of the present day famous chefs 🙂 ! Oh you should see all of our famed ones going commercial: money makes the world go round!!!!!

    Like

  8. Haha. One day my friend, one day you shall savour the pigs trotter. Boned, stuffed and trussed is also a damn tasty way to consume, or that shredded meat and a little stock into a pressed terrine is also cracking… you just need to hide it from the wife 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  9. Lovely pork stock, Conor. Also great if you want to try your hand at carnitas sous-vide (pork shoulder cooked with citrus, pork stock and chiles; loaded with flavor as you can imagine). The muslim/n joke had me laughing out loud! Very educational post too, with two new words for my vocabulary (minerals and crubeens).

    Liked by 1 person

  10. I come from a long line of shopkeepers, Conor, and although we sold hocks well into the 90s, crubeens were long gone. But your post reminded me of a customer who came in every single morning to buy one pound of cheap streaky bacon, a cabbage, and spuds, all of which would have been boiled beyond recognition before being served up to her long-suffering husband. Even when we did sell crubeens, there was no way any of our customers cooked it like that. Just like fish, some pigs’ bits were massacred by indifferent Irish cooking over the decades. You and others (but not Marco PiKnorr White) deserve a medal for rescuing these much-maligned ingredients.

    Liked by 1 person

  11. love the blog Conor, and love reading the comments too! I love a good bit of pork – haven’t tried making the stock yet but the recipe is saved!

    Like

    • Thanks. Getting occasional comments like this is one of the things that keeps me at it. Just knowing that there are people getting a bit of amusement and, hopefully, some information gives me a real buzz.

      Like

  12. I grew up in a small Midwestern town and pickled pigs feet were always sold in the grocery store and in the gas station! Always in clear jars, floating murkily about. I never knew anyone to actually buy and/or eat them, though.

    Like

  13. Wow to think 50 years ago a Hamburger was thought to be “Exotic”. Its almost the go to now at food fairs or mobile food vendors.

    Like

      • I would totally agree Conor, just look at the recent rise in popularity of Pull Pork. The Pig is as popular as ever and the idea of using the whole animal and cheaper cuts is very much the latest trend.

        Like

Join the conversation. Please leave a comment.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.